Walk through the seafood aisle of any mid-country supermarket and you'll find pale fillets sealed in plastic, resting snugly against styrofoam trays and labeled obliquely as "white fish." Tilapia ...

It's the fish that chefs love to hate but shoppers prize, and both for the same reason: This fish isn't fishy. The consumers are winning the debate, though, and tilapia is swimming its way to ubiquity ...